This week in Spain is Semana Santa, or holy week. When I lived in Sevilla, the whole town changed overnight into one full of processions, penitents, hooded men, women dressed in black, incense, the procession music, torrijas (kind of like french toast soaked in honey & wine),... In Madrid there are processions, but most people leave town to get some sun or at least get out of the city for a few days.
I can't say that I'm a huge fan of Semana Santa. I appreciate the focus on Jesus' death on the cross and did stumbled upon a pretty amazing mass last year in front of the royal palace. But overall i dislike Semana Santa. Or at least the fact that it ends on Saturday and that the resurrection really isn't that important (or even really a part of much of what goes on).
Yes, they would say they believe Jesus rose from the dead on Sunday, but, for the most part, the resurrection and the freedom, life, and joy that come from Jesus triumphing over death and paying our debt are definitely NOT a part of the processions or Semana Santa festivities. Instead it is a time to focus on how much Jesus (and Mary) suffered. And to possibly even suffer on their behalf or to earn favor before them as a penitant.
That means they at least walking for miles probably with a large cone-shaped hood (looks like the kkk outfits, although it is just a coincidence as far as i know), possibly barefoot and likely with a float (either one of the stations of the cross or a regal statue of mary surrounded by millions of candles) the weight and size of a large car on your and 30 others' backs for miles. (If you carry the floats, you wear a different hood, or no hood at all.) While this all goes on there is incense and a very somber band that plays and walks too. It goes on the entire holy week. Maudy Thursday it goes all night (which is when in sevilla the Macarena (one of the statues of the Virgin Mary) makes her rounds), literally all day and all night and through the next day. Then Saturday it ends, for the most part. A couple years ago in some towns (including Sevilla) they added a float on Sunday for the resurrection (which is a good move), but hardly anyone goes. As i said, Semana Santa ends Saturday and the resurrection really isn't the focus.
Here are a few pictures...


(1) several of the Virgin Mary floats



(2) nazerenos


(3) some of the Jesus floats



So, why I'm not a big fan... my main issues with Semana Santa, are:
... the lack of focus on the resurrection
... the fact that Mary is portrayed as a queen in royal garb (in all the scenes she appears and when she is alone), a crown, millions of candles, and people yelling out to her "beautiful."
... the fact that there is Mary is definitely part of the main focus, she has a float in every procession
... Jesus is always portrayed as dead, dying, half-dead, weak in Mary's arms, not triumphant
... there is so much focus on the pageantry of it all
... i don't like all the images nor that at times it seems like Jesus is bowing to Mary. i don't like the way Jesus is portrayed.

While I say all of this, I want to find something I can find that is good in the midst of it all. While it's hard, there are a few things that I can see:
... people, or some people, are forced to think about Jesus and what it meant that he died on the cross
... the death of Christ was horrible and bloody and not all happy and triumphant. Yes, in the end, he conquered death, but in the meantime it didn't look good.
... while hardly anyone goes, Semana Santa now does in fact go through Sunday and there are floats (while I'm still not a big fan of how Jesus is portrayed) on Resurrection Sunday
... it does make for a great time of the year to bring up Jesus and is fully normal
There are some more processions and you can see some of the pictures at: http://www.pasionensevilla.tv/index.php?option=com_news_portal&Itemid=411&id=9&lang=es&task=section
http://madridcofrade.blogspot.com/2006/08/cristos-de-la-semana-santa-de-madrid.html































